The central strip of the Huelva province, running from the border with Seville in the east to Portugal in the west is a sparsely populated area of sometimes remarkable countryside. To the east, Andévalo y Parque Minero is characterised by the dramatic Minas de Río Tinto, an area where the landscape is surreal and dramatic. The mines in this area were once controlled by the British, who have left a legacy of colonial buildings and sentiments in the area. To the west, the Andévalo is separated from Portugal by the Río Guadiana and the countryside in this area is scattered with rural white villages surrounded by agricultural land.

Valverde del Camino
The largest town in the area with a population of 13,000, Valverde is an uninspiring town originally the site of a roadside inn. Valverde expanded a couple of centuries ago when it became concerned with commerce and industry. The town became the transport hub for the nearby Río Tinto mines, connecting the mines with Huelva in the south. In 1837, a local cobbler won an international competition and Valverde became synonymous with the quality footwear that is still made here today. Valverde is also home to the last craft shop in Spain that is dedicated to producing cowbells. The artisan who runs the shop produces all kinds of animal bells from minute bells for ferrets through to huge bells for bulls and the bells are sold across Spain. On the outskirts of Valverde is a large mansion covered in pebbledash that was originally built for the directors of a Liverpool railway company who were in charge of the Río Tinto rail line. Valverde has supermarkets, shops and other services and is the only town of any size in the area. Valverde is 35km from Huelva and 70km from Sevilla, 80km from the airport at Seville.

Mines of Río Tinto

The Río Tinto mines just near to the town of Minas de Riotinto are reportedly the oldest mines in the world. They form a spectacular sight, existing today as a huge cavity in the Sierra de Aracena. The resulting landscape is a surreal affair, layers of soil and rock have been removed in search of silver, copper and iron ore among other minerals and the earth is coloured in pinks and browns, yellows, reds and greys, the hues of which change with the sun. The scale of the mining in the area over the years means that today the crater is several kilometres across, and there is still mining continuing in the area, although it is much declined today. The mines are named after the river that flows through the area, so called because of the reddish streaks to the water created by the unearthed minerals.

Minas de Riotinto

The town of Minas de Riotinto is a relatively new town with a population of 5000. Minas de Riotinto consists of parallel rows of white houses situated on the slopes of a hill. Evidence of Minas’s history as a mining town is prominent. The headquarters of the mining operation were situated in a fine but decaying Edwardian building near to the square and you can still see a row of ticket windows from which the miner’s wives would collect their husband’s money. Today, the building is utilised by the Río Tinto Foundation who have amassed much documentation connected to the mining industry. There is a mining museum on the hill above the building and the remains of the old railway station can be seen further down the hill. Near to the village is the captivating and immaculate former British Colony of Bella Vista, complete with a village green, a Presbyterian church and hedged lawns. Formerly used by the British in charge of the mining operations, the houses are currently used by the medical staff of a newly opened General Hospital, which is one of the largest in the Huelva Province. The former colony continues to propound English traditions and customs; in front of what was one the British Club, there are still tennis lawns, and the building inside is decked with hunting trophies, women only teas are held weekly and there is a male-only bar with a billiard table. All very English. True to form, there is a golf course at Riotinto that was built in the 19th century at the mines and was one of the first to be built on the European continent, along with a football pitch. Minas de Riotinto is 8km from Zalamea la Real and 26km from Valverde.

Nerva
Originally known as Zalamea la Vieja, Nerva is an old mining town of 6500 people. The mines of Riotinto are reputed to be King Solomans legendary mines and along with Zalamea la Real, Zalamea la Vieja was named after King Soloman. Nerva is 4km east of Minas de Riotinto. To the northeast of Nerva, 10km away is the village of La Granada de Riotinto with a population of 250. It is a quiet village with white houses surrounded by wooded countryside. 6km west of La Granada is Campofrío with a population of 900. There is a historic bullring at Campofrío.

Zalamea la Real
A pleasant village of 3500 inhabitants, there are wonderful views from Zalamea over the surrounding countryside with its forested, rolling slopes. Zalamea is famous for its anis and its aguardiente. The village is 18km from Valverde in the south, situated on the main N435 road that runs south to Huelva. 4km west of Zalamea is the village of El Campillo with a population of 2500. Southeast of Zalamea, the village of Berrocal lies near the border with Sevilla. There are a couple of restaurants and a guest house in this village of 400 people.

Calañas
An attractive town of 5000 people, Calañas consists of white houses with tiled roofs with a parish church, Nuestra Señora de Gracia, at its centre. Near the village is the 16th century hermitage of La Virgen de Coronada. At the beginning of April each year, a Romería takes place when, amid festivities, a statue of the virgin is carried to this hermitage. Calañas is located in the heart of Andevalo on a crossroads of 2 main roads of the area. The rail line that runs north from Huelva passes through Calañas and there is a train station just outside the town. Calañas is 16km northeast of Valverde.

El Cerro de Andévalo
This beautiful village in the Andévalo countryside has a population of 2000. It is famous for the pilgrimage that takes place here on the first Sunday in May where the “jamuguera” costumes worn by the locals are particularly colourful and original. During the fiesta, traditional copla songs, folk dances and local fandangos are all performed as the pilgrimage makes its way to the hermitage of San Benito Abad. To the east of El Cerro is an area of countryside containing a couple of rural villages and the 7km long Sotiel reservoir. El Cerro is 22km north of Calañas on country roads.

Cabezas Rubias
This relatively unvisited village of 1000 people is so named because of the long-standing connection of the English with the mining activity in this area, Cabezas Rubias meaning “Blonde Heads”. The village is known for the festival of San Sebastian, which takes place on the 20th of January, the pilgrimage of San Benito in May and the Feria which is held in August. The local fandangos are performed at all the fiestas. Cabezas is 22km northeast of Calanas and 42km from Valverde, the nearest service centre.

Villanueva de las Cruces
The tiny village of Villanueva with a population of 500 is situated in the hills of Andévalo, surrounded by attractive countryside. The village contains a lovely whitewashed church, Santa María de la Cruz with a two-tiered bell tower and also the hermitage of San Sebastion. Villanueva is 15km south of Calañas on small country roads.

Alosno
In the middle of Andévalo, Alosno is a town of 5000 around which can be found the remains of many old mines. Today an agricultural town, the countryside surrounding Alosno consists of cork forests and olive groves. Within the town, the chapel of Señor de la Columna and the church of Nuestra Señora de Gracia are interesting sights. The town is renowned for being the main centre for the fandango in the Huelva province. There are a number of shops in Alosno and the town is 40km from the capital of Huelva.

Puebla de Guzmán
A community of 3000 people, Puebla de Guzmán contains the large parish church of Santa Cruz with its baroque tower and tiled roof. There is also an attractive whitewashed chapel in the village with a baroque façade, backed by a dramatic rocky outcrop. There are fantastic views of the surrounding area from the nearby Hill of Aguila, which serves as a natural look out. A pilgrimage to this hill takes place on the last Sunday in April. Guzmán is 15km northwest of Alsono and 50km north of the coast.

Villanueva de los Castillejos
A village of 2500 inhabitants, Villanueva consists of a series of streets spread out around its baroque church whose tower rises out above the rooftops. A lively carnival is held in Villanueva during February; on Easter Sunday the pilgrimage of Nuestra Señorade de las Piedras Albas is held and a popular Feria takes place on the last Sunday in August. Adjacent to Villanueva is El Almendro, a small village of whitewashed houses with red tiled roofs built under a small hill.

Sanlúcar de Guadiana
Sanlúcar is situated right on the border with Portugal, although you have to travel 25km south to actually cross the border due to the Río Guadiana, which separates the two countries. A village of 400 inhabitants, Sanlúcar’s whitewashed houses look over the river to the green hills of Portugal in the west. Testimony to Sanlúcar’s position as a border town are the remains of San Marcos castle to the north of the village. The village is a quiet, relaxing place, surrounded by lovely countryside.

Northeast of Sanlúcar is El Granado, a rural village of 600 inhabitants. The area to the north of El Granado contains the Minas de Santa Catalina and further north still, behind the Sierra Madronera is the Chanza reservoir, a large area of water through which the Portuguese-Spanish border runs.

San Silvestre de Guzmán
A quiet village of 700 inhabitants, San Silvestre has a relaxed atmosphere. The main Plaza de España is pleasantly shabby, the façade of the white chapel is in need of paint and the road is uneven, but bright flowers erupt from the ground beneath the palms in the centre of the square. San Silvestre is 8km west of the Portuguese border and 20km from the border town of Ayamonte in the south.

San Bartolomé de la Torre
Archaeological evidence shows that the area around San Bartolomé has been inhabited for thousands of years. Today it is a town of 3000 inhabitants with a particularly interesting medieval tower, which gives the town its name. The main economic activities in San Bartolomé are agriculture and cattle farming and the town became greatly modernized in the eighties when the cultivation of strawberries and oranges was introduced to the area. The locally produced bread and confectionaries are famous throughout Huelva for their quality. San Bartolomé is 30km from the province capital of Huelva.

Paymogo
In the northwest of the Andévalo area, 5km from the border with Portugal is the relatively isolated village of Paymogo with a population of 1200 people. Paymogo contains a striking 17th century church of Santa María Magdalena. The church is a protected monument, built of stone with an interestingly tiled bell tower roof. Paymogo is situated 15km off the N493 main road which runs between Valverde and Rosal de la Frontera on the Portuguese border.

Santa Bárbara de Casa, a village of 1200 people, is situated on this road, 20km south of Rosal de la Frontera.