Perhaps the least known of the Andalucían provincial capitals, Jaén is an interesting city with a magnificent baroque cathedral which, when viewed from the Moorish castle above, seems to dwarf the buildings surrounding it. Historically, Jaén served as a gateway between Castile in the north and the Andalucían cities to the south. Surrounded by expanses of rolling countryside covered with olive trees, Jaén is a quiet, undiscovered city with some well kept architectural surprises.

Jaén
The provincial capital of Jaén is spread around the slopes of a hill on top of which stands the most emblematic structure of Jaén, the magnificent cathedral. The production of olive oil has always been important to Jaén, since Roman times. During Moorish rule, Jaén was the capital of a Moorish principality when it was given the name of “Geen” or Caravan Route, due to its position in between Andalucía and Castile.. Not much of the old city remains, much of the town is modern and uninspiring and Jaén attracts few visitors, most of those who do come do so to visit the cathedral or to stay in the towns parador, which is a converted Moorish castle that sits on Mount Santa Catalina above the city.

From the railway station to the centre of town runs the Paseo de la Estación, a large, tree lined avenue. At the top of this road is the main square of Jaén, the Plaza de la Constitución, not a particularly attractive area although further up there are some attractive buildings in between the square and the cathedral.
North of the cathedral are the remains of the old town and the only old town gate to survive, the Puerta de San Lorenzo on the Calle de los Almendros Aguilar. Near here, on the Calle Martínez Molina is a museum of craft and international art and underneath the museum are the largest Moorish baths in Spain. Jaén’s castle stands above the town and can be reached by climbing a steep and rough path or by road. The climber is rewarded with fantastic views over Jaén and the surrounding countryside of rolling olive fields.

Celebrations in Jaén include the day of San Antonio Abad, the patron saint and protector of animals when bonfires are lit in the plazas of Jaén, the locals competing with each other to build the biggest bonfire and performing a traditional dance known as “los melenchones”. Jaén is a city of 110,000 people. Its bars are renowned for the variety and quality of the tapas they serve. The local cuisine relies heavily on the olive oil that is produced in abundance in the surrounding area. Nightlife in Jaén is relatively low key although there are numerous bars, restaurants and hotels in the city.
Jaén is well connected with other Spanish cities, it is a three hour drive to Madrid and the nearest airports are located at Granada, 80km away and Seville, 150km away. Jaén is connected to Madrid by rail although it is necessary to change trains at Espelúy, 35km north of Jaén. The N323 motorway runs south to Granada and north to Madrid and the A316 motorway goes west towards Córdoba and Seville. Jaén is 160km from the coast.

La Guardia de Jaén
An attractive village situated amongst the olive groves, the ruins of an 8th century Moorish castle stand above La Guardia. The village also contains the parish church of the Asunción designed by Vandelvira with an impressive and spacious interior. Next to the church are the ruins of the monastery of San Domingo.
La Guardia is a village of 2000 inhabitants situated 8km to the west of Jaén, just off the N323 motorway.

Further south lay the villages of Cárchel and Carchelejo, 2 small villages located just off the N323, 25km south of Jaén.

Campillo de Arenas
Close to the border with Granada the village has a population of 2250. Situated in the hills of the Sierra de Alta Coloma at a height of 874 metres, Campillo is surrounded by rugged mountains and olive groves. The remains of the Castle of Puerta Arenas can be seen in Campillo. The festival of the Candelaria is held on February 2nd across Jaén and is particularly lively in Campillo where it is known as the “día de las pajaritas”.
Campillo lies next to the N3223 motorway, 32km south of Jaén and 48km north of Granada.

Just south of Campillo, the village of Noalejo stands at 1100 metres and has a population of 3000.

Los Villares
A village of 5000 inhabitants in the Sierra de Jaén mountains. Nestled on the banks of the Frio River, Los Villares is famous for the traditional wicker baskets that are produced in the village.
Los Villares is 12km south of Jaén on a small winding road.

Torredelcampo
Located between the mountains and flat, agricultural land, Torredelcampo is a small town of 12,000 inhabitants. Buildings of note include the Church of San Bartolomé, a 16th century Renaissance church with a bell tower resembling the minaret of a mosque. Important archaeological remains have been found in the area around Torredelcampo. Perhaps one day these will include fossilised human retinas - there is a bungee jumping centre in Torredelcampo.
The town is situated 9km west of Jaén on the A316 motorway.

To the northeast of Jaén, Fuerte del Rey is an attractive, quiet village with a population of 1000 set amongst the olive groves of Jaén. The village includes the church of Nuestra Señora de la Natividad and the chapel of Cerro de la Horca.
Fuerte is 13km northwest of Jaén on the small road that runs between Jaén and Andújar.

Mengíbar
A pretty town of 9000 people located near to the Guadalquivir River, the main square of Mengíbar is entered through a stone archway. The parish church of San Pedro dates from the 16th century and was designed by Alfonso de Barba, a student of Vandelvira. The train line running down to Jaén after it branches off from the Madrid-Seville line runs through Mengíbar and there is a station in the town.
Mengíbar is 22km north of Jaén on the N3232 motorway.

The villages of Villagordo and Torrequebradilla are part of the same municipal area. With a combined population of 4000, these villages are located just south of the Guadalquivir River, a few kilometres from the N323 motorway, some 25km north of Jaén.