Sierra de Grazalema
The Sierra de Grazalema cover the north east
interior of the Cádiz province from Arcos
de la Frontera in the north to Medina Sidiona
in the plains of the south. Away from the coast
and from heavily touristed areas and large urban
centres, the white villages that nestle in the
mountains of the Sierra are delightful, untouched
places and the wild coutryside surrounding them
boasts a wealth of flora, fauna and natural
beauty.
Arcos de la Frontera
The town of Arcos with a population of 28,000
is situated in a spectacular position on a high
ridge next to the Guadalete river. Approaching
the town from the eastern A372 road, Arcos appears
to be suspended above a dramatic cliff face.
The steep, cobbled streets of the old town lead
up to a 15th century castle and there are magnificent
views from the castle and the town, particularly
at Plaza de Cabildo, over the surrounding countryside.
There are several buildings of note in Arcos
including the Santa Maria Church, with its gothic
façade and ornately carved choir stalls,
the San Pedro Chapel, which sits on the edge
of the cliffs, the Palacio de Mayorazgo with
its intricate Renaissance façade and
the Ayuntamiento with its fine Mudejar ceiling.
The tall, white Renaissance houses and crumbling
stone façades of the old town can be
appreciated from the narrow streets in the heart
of the old town. Due to its rich architecture
and magnificent setting, Arcos has been declared
a National Historic-Artistic monument. Just
below Arcos is a reservoir formed by the River
Guadalete where various leisure pursuits can
be practiced. Arcos is situated on the A382
motorway, the airport at Jerez is 22km from
Arcos.
Algar
An attractive village with whitewashed houses
and 1700 inhabitants, the name Algar means cave
in Arabic and there are many caves in the surrounding
area. Algar is close to the enormous reservoir
of Guadalcacín. The village was created
in the 18th century in an attempt to repopulate
the area and, as with other villages in this
area, its streets have been built on a uniform,
grid pattern with the important buildings located
around the central square. Today, Algar is known
for its leather goods. Algar is 12km from Arcos
on a small country road.
Bornos
Beyond Arcos, on the shores of the reservoir
is the village of Bornos, with a population
of 8000. An agricultural village of typical
white Andalucían houses, there are beautiful,
timeless views from Bornos across the lake to
the mountains beyond.
Bornos is 9km from Arcos on the A382 main road.
A regular bus service connects the village with
Jerez.
Espera
North of Arcos, the village of Espera with 4000
inhabitants has some important archaeological
sites including the Roman ruins of Carissa Aurelia
and the Arabic Castle of Fatetar. The nearby
lake of la Zorrilla serves as a reserve for
migratory birds. Espera is 14km north of Arcos
on the minor A393 road.
Villamartin
The small town of Villamartin has a population
of 12,000 and is located north east of Arcos
on the other side of the large reservoir. Another
typical Andalucían village with large
squares, white houses and narrow streets, Villamartin
is surrounded by agricultural land. There is
a good public swimming pool in Villamartin as
well as a sports centre. Villamartin is 10km
from Bornos on the main A382 road.
15km northeast of Villamartin, the village of
Puerto Serrano with 7000 inhabitants is a tranquil
village located on plains amongst agricultural
land. With whitewashed houses and streets built
on a grid pattern, it lies on the northern border
of the Cádiz province.
Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park
The spectacular and wild Sierra de Grazalema
spans the east of the Cádiz Province
from the coast to the mountains inland and stretches
over into the province of Málaga. The
turbulent geological history of this area has
formed valleys, caves, gorges and gulleys and
the mountains ranges have heights between 600
and 1600 metres. Much of the area is wild and
uninhabited, supporting a range of flora and
fauna. Many prehistoric, world famous paintings
have been found in the caves of the area. The
villages in this area are remote and little
visited and have often preserved the unique
characteristics of the Andalucían mountain
village.
Prado del Rey
On the north eastern edge of the park, Prado
del Rey is a lively village of 6000 people.
It was an important Roman settlement and the
remains of the Roman city of Iptuci are 4km
from the village. The village was established
in 1768 by a Royal Order which attempted to
re-colonize depopulated areas of Andalucía.
As such, its streets have been well planned
and run on a grid pattern, with the main administrative
and religious buildings at the centre. Prado
del Rey manufactures leather products, handmade
furniture and delicious, rich honey. The Pajarete
wines which are produced in the area are well
known and the village is surrounded by vineyards
and olive trees. Today, the village is lively
and atmospheric, it boasts discos and pubs and
3 public swimming pools. Prado is 16km south
east of Villamartin, the nearest service centre.
South of Prado, the smaller village of El Bosque
with 2000 inhabitants is also located on the
edge of the national park. Surrounded by forests
and natural beauty, El Bosque was awarded the
Provincial Award of Beautification. El Bosque
is known as being an excellent location for
hang-gliding and annual championships are held
here. El Bosque is located on the crossroads
of the A372 and A373 roads, 6km south of Prado.
Benamahoma is another mountain village 4km east
of El Bosque.
Grazalema
Situated in the mountains in the west of Cádiz,
bordering the Málaga Province, Grazalema
(population 2000) has a unique microclimate
which makes it the wettest area in the whole
of Spain. During the winter, snow even falls
here. One of the most visited villages in the
area, Grazalema's whitewashed houses and cobbled
streets lay over the fold of a mountain in an
extremely picturesque area. The local manufacture
of pure woollen blankets has been a tradition
in the village since Arab times and they are
still made here today and exported all over
the world. The area surrounding the village
consists of lovely countryside and forests of
Mediterranean fir where the tawny vulture and
the golden eagle can be found. The fir trees
are a particular species known as "pinsapos"
which is not found anywhere else in Europe.
Hang-gliding and paragliding are practised at
Grazalema, there are numerous caves in the area
used for pot-holing and mountain-climbing on
peaks up to 1,500 metres is also possible. The
public swimming pool in Grazalema an extremely
priviledged view of Grazalema and the surrounding
area. The nearest service centre to Grazalema
is Ronda, across the border in Málaga
some 26km away.
Villaluenga del Rosario
A tiny mountain village of 500 people, Villaluenga
consists of inclined streets and whitewashed
dwellings decorated with flowers hanging from
their balconies. Nearby, the caves of La Yedra
and La Rajada drip with stalagmites and stalagtites.
There is a swimming pool in the village. Villaluenga
is 10km south of Grazalema, rather isolated
on winding mountain roads.
West of Villaluenga, the unique countryside
of La Manga contains prehistoric caves, dolmens.
Benaocaz is another small mountain village,
6km west of Villaluenga. It lies at the foot
of a huge mountain which dwarves the tiny village
of 700 inhabitants. The buildings of Benaocaz
are clearly of Moorish influence. There is a
little museum of local archaeology and ethnology
in the village. Benaocaz is 8km from the little
town of Ubrique.
Ubrique
This mountain town is famous for its leather
industry which the Moors established here. It
is a lovely white town of 17,000 inhabitants
built close to the source of the Ubrique river
which divides the centre of the town in two.
The town consists of picturesque steep and narrow
streets and attracts a few tourists. The leather
work shops can be visited here and the leather
industry continues to thrive. There are sports
facilities and a public swimming pool in Ubrique.
Ubrique is 8km from Benaocaz and is a minor
service centre for the villages in the surrounding
area.
Zahara de la Sierra
To the north of the mountains, Zahara is an
extremely beautiful village which is built beneath
an outcrop of rock. A village of 1500 people,
it is located next to a picturesque lake in
an area of outstanding natural beauty. The remains
of a 13th century Moorish castle can be seen
on the wooded hill above the village. Zahara
is situated 51km from Arcos de la Frontera and
15km from Grazalema.
On the opposite side of the lake to the east,
El Gastor is a charming white mountain village
of 2000 inhabitants, nestled under the peak
of a mountain. El Gastor is 15km from Zahara
by road.
Algodonales
The huge Líjar mountains loom over Algondonales,
a village of 5500 residents. The village is
of Roman origins, although Neolithic remains
have been found in the caves nearby. Algondonales
is well known for its manufacture of guitars
and it is still possible to see them being made
in the village. Situated by the River Guadelete,
close to the reservoir formed by the river,
it is an attractive place composed of white
houses. Algodonales is 6km north of Zahara and
is situated just off the main A382 road, about
halfway between the service centres of Arcos
de la Frontera and Ronda in the Málaga
province.
Olvera
Located in the north east of the Cádiz
province, this town of 9000 inhabitants is an
impressive sight, with its white houses crowning
the top of a hill. It used to be infamous as
a bandits hideout an old saying in Andalucía
was "Mata a tu hombre. Y vete a Olvera"
- kill your man and fly to Olvera! The town
is indeed reminiscent of bandit country, with
jagged rocks surrounding it. The plain looking
castle balances on a dramatic rocky outcrop
next to the town. The castle is of Moorish origin
and provides dizzy views down to the town below.
Olvera is surrounded by olive groves and produces
pure olive oil and esparto products. Views to
the south of the town look over the beautiful
Serranía de Ronda. Olvera is situated
on the main A382 road, 100km from Jerez. The
nearest service centre is the town of Ronda
in Málaga, 40km away.
4km south east of Olvera is Torre de Alhaquime,
a village of 1000 inhabitants. Its tranquil
streets and pure mountain air make this an attractive
place. It is a white village in a picturesque
setting on top of a small hill, the River Guadalporcún
runs next to the village.
Near to Torre is the village of Alcalá
del Valle with 5200 people. A white village
in a sparsely wooded area, it is one of the
well preserved white mountain villages. It is
known for its esparto products and "pata
negra" cured ham. Alcalá is close
to the border with Málaga, 12km from
Torre by road.
Setenil de las Bodegas
Setenil is an unusual village of 3000 people.
Its houses are built into the side of the mountain
and the rooftops of the houses are actually
the rock itself, the mountain dramatically overhanging
the constructions and the houses nestled underneath.
Well known for its wicker and esparto products,
Setenil is popular with tourists due to its
unique style of dwellings. Sentenil is 4km south
of Alcalá.
Central Area
Medina Sidonia
A Moorish city that, from a distance, appears
to hang like a white necklace around the hill
on which it is built. It is a town of 11,000
people whose narrow and sometimes very steep
streets are certainly reminiscent of the Moorish
era. Initially, Medina was a Roman colony known
as Assido and was later called "Medina"
or city, by the Arabs. It is one of the least
tainted of the hill villages in Cádiz,
with squares and courtyards, a gothic church
and cafes with terraces. Vestiges of the Moorish
castle still remain and offer good views over
the surrounding countryside. Medina is known
for a sweet known as alfajor, a honey and almond
pastry whose origins date back to Moorish times.
Medina is situated in the centre of the Cádiz
province, it is connected to Jerez, 40km away,
by dual carriageway.
Benalup de Sidiona
The village of Benalup with 6000 inhabitants
is another village of Moorish origins with narrow,
white streets, which was traditionally involved
in agriculture. It is close to some important
prehistoric sites, including the cave of Tajo
de las Figuras, which can be reached with some
difficulty 10km from Benalup. Also nearby is
the abandoned monastery of El Cuervo, a beautiful
and isolated sight. Benalup is 20km from Medina
on small country roads.
Paterna de Rivera
North east of Medina with a population of 5000,
Paterna is famous for its asparagus and snails,
its indiginous songs known as "peteneras"
and also for raising fighting bulls and graceful
Andalucían horses. In July, a national
Peteneras competition is held here. The springs
near the castle are well known for their medicinal
qualities. Paterna is 10km from Medina on the
small A393 road. Another 20km north is the village
of San José del Valle (4000 inhabitants)
which lies between Cádiz's mountains
in the north and the cattle raising plains in
the south, San José is a couple of kilometres
from the Guadalcacín reservoir.
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