The northwest corner of the Córdoba province,
the Alto Guadiato covers a variety of landscapes
from the industrial ex-mining town of Peñarroya-Pueblonuevo
with its sooty, abandoned buildings to the mountain
villages of the Sierra Morena, unexplored by
tourists and surrounded by pristine countryside
and plentiful wildlife. In the centre of the
region, the extensive reservoirs of Punte Nuevo
and Sierra Boyera are ideal places for practising
watersports of all kinds.
Peñarroya Pueblonuevo
The main town of Alto Guadiato, Peñarroya
was previously a wealthy coal mining town which
is now in a state of decay since its coal mines
have been depleted by a French mining company.
The town of 13000 people is not especially attractive,
there is an abundance of abandoned buildings,
relics from a time when industry was thriving
and a layer of soot covers many of the buildings,
including the neo-gothic brick parish church.
Peñarroya is reminiscent of a northern
European industrial town, placed in the unusual
setting of southern Spain. The Festival de Cante
de las Minas, the singing miners, is held here.
Just south of the town, the reservoir of Sierra
Boyera runs from Peñarroya down to Belmez.
Peñarroya is situated on the main N432
road, 79km from Cordoba. The industrial goods
rail line that cuts through Alto Guadiato passes
through the industrial area to the south of
the town.
Belmez
Another old mining village which has suffered
since resources have been depleted, Belmez has
a population of 4000 and is notable for its
Moorish castle. This castle, constructed on
the summit of a dramatic rocky pinnacle can
be reached by a set of steps that have been
cut directly from the rock face and lead up
to the castle. This rocky staircase is practically
vertical and at the top of the steps are some
dizzying views across the surrounding countryside,
which is somewhat dry and empty. Belmez is 7km
south of Peñarroya on the main N432 road
that leads down to Córdoba. 10km south
of Belmez is the village of Villanueva del Rey,
just off the N432 road with a population of
1300
Espiel
Clinging dramatically to the side of a mountain,
the village of Espiel has some of the best climbing
crags in Córdoba. The village is surrounded
by the vineyards, which once stretched all the
way down to Córdoba. Just south of the
town is the extensive reservoir of Puento Nuevo,
some 15km long. Sailing, fishing and other water
based activities can be practised on the reservoir.
The village of 2500 people is just off main
N432 road, 20km southeast of Belmez and 50km
north of Córdoba.
Villaviciosa de Córdoba
Surrounded by countryside and vineyards, Villaviciosa
is a fairly isolated village of 4000 people.
Situated to the east of the Sierra de Casas
Rubias, Villaviciosa is 693 metres above sea
level. To the west of the village, the mountain
wilderness stretches unbroken over to the border
with the province of Seville. The village is
48km from Córdoba although the roads
running here are twisting, turning mountain
roads. Villaviciosa is 17km from the main N432
road.
Villaharta
This pleasant village of 600 inhabitants is
set in lovely countryside, with mountains and
the Puente Nuevo reservoir nearby. The surrounding
area is rich in wildlife and hunting is a popular
pastime here. There are several shops and bars
in Villaharta and the nearest service centre
is Córdoba, 38km to the south of the
village. Villaharta is 3km from main N432 road
Obejo
An isolated and small village of 700 inhabitants,
Obejo is reached by extremely twisting mountain
roads. This mountain village is 720m above sea
level and is surrounded by breathtaking countryside
suitable for those interested in outdoor life
and activities such as walking, mountain biking
and horseriding. Despite the beauty of the area,
there is relatively little tourism here because
of the village's isolation. There are three
bars in the village and an eclectic local store.
One of Córdoba's golf courses is located
9km from Obejo, the Club de Campo. Unique to
Obejo are the festivals held in honour to the
village's patron saint, San Benito when the
Baile del Patatú (the dance of Patatú)
takes place, which includes a sword dance. A
mass is held for San Benito inside the church
and afterwards, locals dressed as swordsmen
with bright red waistbands and white shirts
stage a mock battle in the street in time to
the music. The climax to this is when the dancers
preten!d to chop the head off of the master
of the ceremonies. Obejo is 18km off the main
N432 road, although this road may take some
time to navigate.
Fuente Obejuna
This small town of 6000 people is in the west
of Alto Guadiato. Its famous 15th century uprising
is a good indicator of the character of the
town. In 1476, the villagers stormed the palace
of a local tyrannical lord, throwing him out
of the window and killing him with lances and
swords. The lord's body was then dragged into
the main square where the men and women of the
village cut it into pieces. Afterwards, the
inhabitants of Fuente Obejuna collectively took
responsibility for the lord's death and no individuals
were singled out as murderers. This led to a
popular saying: "Fuenteovejuna lo hizo"
- Fuenteovejuna did it. The famous 17th century
playwright, Lope de Vega, dramatised the rebellion
in a play, which was performed in the village
in the 1930's, directed by the poet, García
Lorca. Today, Fuente Obejuna isn't the most
inspiring of towns and the problems that lead
to the lynching of the lord in the 15th century
continue for the villagers. Locals in the 70's
remarke!d to a visiting politician that there
were a few landowners in Fuente who had everything,
many workers who had nothing and there was no
middle ground in between the two. The parish
church of Nuestra Señora del Castillo,
was built on the site of the governor's palace,
which was destroyed soon after his death. The
church itself has an exquisite gothic interior
and an altarpiece of painted panels. Festivals
here include Carnival, which features a fancy
dress parade, La Virgen de Gracia, which is
held on the last Sunday in April in honour of
the patron saint of the village, and the Feria
in August.
In the Sierra Morena in the northwest of Alto
Guardio are a group of 3 small villages surrounded
by enchanting countryside rich in wildlife and
away from the well known tourist trails. Los
Blazquez has a population of 700 and
is located 20km north of Fuente Obejuna, 495
feet above sea level. To the west, Valsequillo
is 11km away. A smaller village with a population
of 470, Valsequillo has a charming palm lined
main square and a whitewashed village church
that stands on the square. The goods only railway
line passes to the west of the village. South
is La Granjuela, with a population
of 500, 547 metres above sea level.
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