At the heart of the Córdoba province,
cut in two by the River Guadalquivir, Guadalquivir
en Córdoba is where the city of Córdoba
itself is located. Steeped in a history stretching
back to Roman times with the impressive and
magical Mesquita, the Great Mosque, as its centre
point, Córdoba is a vibrant and bustling
city that was once the forerunner in intellectual
and technological advancement in Europe. Beyond
Córdoba itself are attractive villages
built on the banks of the Guadalquivir and crowned
with ancient castles. Backed by the impressive
Sierra Morena to the north, the countryside
is never far away and outside the villages and
towns lay endless possibilities for walkers,
cyclers and horse-riders and there are large
reservoirs as well as the river itself to cater
for watersport lovers of all kinds.
Córdoba
Beneath the Sierra Morena, on the northern banks
of the Guadalquivir river, Córdoba is
an enchanting Andalucían city, rich in
a history whose relics still stand today. Córdoba
was an important town in Roman times and it
continued to thrive under the Moors who made
Córdoba the capital of the Al-Andalus
empire. During the 10th century, Córdoba
was an international player and it became known
as one of the greatest cities in the world because
of its splendid architecture, its size and its
important intellectual and cultural developments.
Abd al Rahman III invited great scholars, philosophers
and architects from the Middle East to come
and live in Córdoba, thus creating for
the city the reputation for being the seat of
cutting edge intellect. Andalucía became
one of the most powerful regions of Europe and
an area far more advanced technologically and
scientifically than its counterparts. After
it was recaptured by the Christians in 1236,
Córdoba went i!nto decline and, in contrast
to the vibrant place it is today, Córdoba
was described by travellers as a sad and melancholy
place. Indeed, a famous poem by García
Lorca opens: "Córdoba, lejana y
sola" (Córdoba, distant and lonely).
A busy, thriving city of 300,000 inhabitants,
Córdoba attracts many tourists, most
of whom come to see the Mezquita, or the Great
Mosque. This magnificent structure was built
under the Umayyad dynasty, beginning as a modest
building in the 8th century, which was added
to over the centuries until it was the largest
and grandest mosque in the Muslim world. Although
the exterior of the building is uninspiring,
the delights of the Mesquita are to be found
inside the building. Exquisite marble columns
take up the interior, stretching in all directions
like a maze. Originally, there were 1293 of
these columns, which are intricately decorated
and awe inspiring. These pillars are constructed
from alternating layers of chalk and brick,
making up lovely designs and textures. Hidden
inside the mosque, facing Mecca, is the mihrab
prayer niche. After the conquest of Córdoba
by the Christians, many Moorish buildings were
destroyed. The Mesquita, however, was preserved
due to its! beauty and converted into a Christian
building of worship. The Mesquita has to be
seen to be fully appreciated although it has
inspired numerous writings by travellers over
the years who have struggled to put the magic
of the Mesquita into words.
The rest of Córdoba is often overshadowed
by the Mesquita, although it should not be.
The centre of Córdoba is dominated by
the Plaza de las Tendillas, with its public
clock that chimes flamenco music. Just south
of here is the San Miguel area with its pleasant
old bars and further south still, the Jewish
district where the balconies of whitewashed
houses are decked with colourful flowers. Many
of the houses are now shops catering to tourists
selling goods of Moorish origins. Nearby is
the Callejo de Flores, a small cul-de-sac decorated
with a multitude of flowers from where the minaret
of the Mesquita can be seen. Next to the River
Guadalquivir, behind the Mesquita, is the Alcázar
- the palace fortress with extensive gardens
from which the Spanish Inquisition was carried
out during the reconquest. Other sites of interest
in the city include the Museum Taurino, dedicated
to bullfighting, which contains a replica tomb
in honour of the famous bullfighter, Manolette.
H!anging on the wall of his tomb is the skin
of the bull responsible for goring Manolette
to death. The Museo Arqueologico contains Roman
and Moorish relics and the Museo Julio Romero
de Torres contains works from this famous Córdoban
artist.
Córdoba is situated at the centre of
the Córdoba province, 150km from Seville,
200km from Granada and 170km from Málaga
and the coast. To the north of Córdoba
and the Guadalquivir river are the sparsely
populated Sierra Morena with its wild countryside
and national parks whilst to the south are villages
and towns scattered over the Andalucían
plains. 8km from Córdoba, in the foothills
of the Sierra Morena is the 18 hole golf course
of Los Villares. Córdoba airport is located
6km from the city although at present it does
not serve as an international terminal. The
nearest airports are located at Seville and
Málaga, which is served by budget airlines.
The Seville to Madrid rail line runs through
Córdoba, providing regular and swift
rail links to the rest of the country.
Almodóvar del Rio
Built just above the Guadalquivir River, Almodóvar,
with a population of 7000, is notable for its
striking castle which rests upon a mound near
to the river. The castle is heavily restored
but it makes an impressive sight. Just west
of the town is the huge irrigation reservoir,
Embalse de la Breña. The reservoir is
home to an excellent waterski and wakeboard
club complete with slalom courses, coaching
and hire gear. The town of Almodóvar
attracts mainly Spanish tourists who come to
see the castle. There are hotels, restaurants
and bars in the town, the main service centre
is Córdoba, 22km away on the C431 main
road. The Seville to Madrid train line runs
through Almodóvar and there is a train
station in the town. Further west on the banks
of the Guadalquivir River is Posadas, a village
of 7000 people with the attractive parish church
of Nuestra Señora de las Flores. There
is a train station in Posadas, which is 35km
from Córdoba.
Palma del Rio
On the southern banks of the Guadalquivir River
is the picturesque town of Palma del Rio, in
the west of the Córdoba province near
to the border with Seville. The town has a distinctive
church tower and several sites of interest including
the municipal museum, a theatre and a cultural
centre. There is an important Franciscan monastery
in the town which was established on the site
of a former hospice dating from the 15th century.
The monastery today is a hotel, where the rooms
are the old monk cells. This quiet town is known
as being the birthplace of Manuel Benitez El
Cordobes, a famous Spanish bullfighter whose
unusual antics in the ring gave rise to the
nickname: "the Beatle of the Bullring".
Palma del Rio's other claim to fame is that
Fray Junipero Serra, a New World missionary,
introduced oranges to the Americas with seeds
from the town. The train station in Palma is
located on the other side of the river. Palma
is 55km from Córdoba. To the east of
Palma is the! town of Fuente Palmera,
situated right on the border with Seville at
a crossroads of minor roads. There are guesthouses
and several restaurants in this town of 9000
people, which is 17km from Palma del Rio. East
again is Guadalcázar
with a population of 1000. This village is located
10km from the NIV motorway that runs south from
Córdoba.
Hornachuelos
North of Palma in the foothills of the Sierra
Morena, the town of Hornachuelos has a population
of 5000. From the town, excursions can be made
into the national park where a plethora of different
wildlife species make their home. The area is
ideal for walking, mountain biking, horse riding
and camping. There are shops, bars and restaurants
in the town, which is situated 7km from the
main C431 road and 51km from Córdoba,
next to a long, narrow reservoir.
Montoro
In the east of Guadalquivir en Córdoba
is the picturesque and unspoilt town of Montoro
with a population of 10,000. Of Moorish origin,
the town stands on the banks of the River Guadalquivir,
its white houses rising upwards from the river.
In 1480, the citizens of Montoro put together
their money in order to build a bridge across
the Guadalquivir, thus improving communications
between Andalucía and Castille. In order
to obtain enough money for the bridge, the women
of Montoro actually sold their personal jewelry.
This act so impressed Queen Isabella that from
then until this day, the town has been given
royal privileges. The bridge became known as
the bridge of "Las Donadas" - the
lay sisters, in honour of the women who gave
up their personal possessions for it to be built.
The stone bridge with its sturdy arches still
spans the river today. The unique atmosphere
of Montoro can be enjoyed in the enchanting
town square of Plaza de España, where
the lovely façade of! the parish church
of San Bartolomé displays a mixture of
gothic and mudéjar styles. Small, narrow
streets wind their way round the town where
surprises such as traditional village shops,
old style "men's clubs" and the 13th
century church of Santa María de la Mota
are waiting to be discovered. Montoro is 40km
from Córdoba on the NIV motorway. There
is a railway station in the town connecting
Montoro with Córdoba.
West of Montoro, a very winding mountain road
leads to the village of Adamuz
with a population of 4500. This is a pleasant
village which is relatively untouched due to
its out of the way location. Adamuz is 24km
from Montoro. 12km east of Montoro on the NIV
motorway is the village of Villa del
Rio with a population of 7000. Villa
del Rio is connected to the same rail line as
Montoro.
Bujalance
Surrounded by a forest of olive trees, Bujalance
is home to 8000 people and the old village has
been well conserved. There is an ancient, ruined
Moorish castle here, a town hall dating from
the 17th century and a lovely medieval parish
church with an attractive interior. The famous
painter and writer, Antonio Palomino was born
in Bujalance in the 17th century and a statue
to him stands in the town square. Bujalance
is 15km south of Montoro on the C309 road. East
of Bujalance is Cañete de las Torres,
a village of 3500 which has a Moorish castle
on the outskirts of the village.
El Carpio
The hilltop village of El Carpio with its Moorish
castle lies on the southern banks of the Guadalquivir,
adjacent to the NIV motorway. El Carpio's whitewashed
houses are huddled around its large tower. Near
to El Carpio is a unique sight in the form of
an electrical power station. The power station
is topped by domes resembling mosques and huge
elephant heads supporting a balcony. The architect
who designed this remarkable structure, Casto
Fernández Shaw, also designed the nearby
dam, which has Moorish-style towers on either
side. Also in the area is the estate of the
Dukes of Alba. El Carpio has a population of
4500 and a handlful of bars, restaurants and
shops. There is a train station in the village,
which is 25km east of Córdoba.
Just across the river is the village of Villafranca
de Córdoba with 3000 inhabitants.
To the east of El Carpio is the village of Pedro
Abad with 3700 inhabitants. There is
a large modern mosque in the village which has
been recently built to accommodate the growing
number of Muslims moving to the area.
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