This southwest region of the Jaén province
is bordered by the provinces of Granada and Córdoba.
The Sierra Sur is an area of mountains,
olive groves and agricultural land dotted with
villages and small towns all within easy reach
of the capital of Jaén. Testimony to this
region’s turbulent past, many of the villages
are near to castle ruins and there have been some
important archaeological finds in the area. The
once grand citadel of Alcalá la Real is
still a majestic sight and there are some little
known villages in the foothills of the surrounding
mountains with a unique character and atmosphere.
Alcalá la Real
Right in the south of the Jaén province, near
to the border with Granada, Alcalá la Real is
surrounded by an expanse of olive trees and
wheat fields, a landscape that continues all
the way down to the Sierra Nevada in the south.
The area around Alcalá has been inhabited since
prehistoric times and Alcalá itself became a
much fortified citadel. Alcalá was the focus
of many attacks by the Christians due to its
position near to the fertile vega surrounding
Moorish Granada. After the Reconquest in 1492,
Alcalá was able to spread out from the citadel
and modern Alcalá began to develop. Today it
is a busy town of 21,000 inhabitants overlooked
by the fortified citadel.
The citadel is emblematic of Alcalá and stands
out over the rest of the city. A steep, pretty
street flanked by whitewashed houses leads up
to the citadel from which there are magnificent
views of the surrounding countryside reaching
right down to the snowcaps of the Sierra Nevada
on a clear day.
The Paseo de los Alamos is used by the locals
for the evening and Sunday “paseo” or walk.
Various fairs and markets are held on this street
throughout the year. Alcalá is renowned for
its traditional craftwork including leatherwork,
embroidery and pottery. Local festivals include
an smaller version of the “fallas” that takes
place in Valencia, when bonfires are lit in
the streets on February 2nd. More bonfires and
fireworks take place on June 24th in honour
of San Juan and on August 15th, a colourful
and impressive procession takes place when thousands
of candles are lit.
A modern town with plenty of amenities including
accommodation, shops, bars, restaurants, libraries,
schools and a cinema screen, Alcalá is situated
on the N432 that runs between Córdoba, 85km
away and Granada, 47km away. Jaén is 55km to
the north of Alcalá
Frailes
A village of 1800 inhabitants located right
on the edge of the Jaén province, Frailes
has been transformed by Michael Jacobs´s
book, “The Factory of Light” from
another nondescript provincial village to a
fascinating area populated by interesting and
endearing local characters and omnipresent saints.
There have been a number of important archaeological
finds in the area surrounding Frailes, from
prehistoric, Iberian and Roman eras. Frailes
today is built around the church of Santa Lucía,
originally a hermitage that was turned into
a church in the 18th century.
Frailes has a primary and a secondary school,
a small public library, a pharmacy, a couple
of restaurants and a handful of bars. Frailes
is located 89km from Jaén and 52km from
Granada.
Castillo de Locubín
A pretty white village in the foothills of the
Sierra Sur. The Moorish castle that gave the
village its name can still be seen although
it is somewhat ruined. There is an important
church in Castillo, constructed in the 16th
century. Castillo follows a tradition of pottery
and ceramics making, locally produced pottery
can be bought in the village. During the first
week in June when the cherry harvest begins,
a cherry fair is held where there are competitions
for the best liqueurs, desserts and cherry based
cuisine.
Castillo is a village of 5000 inhabitants with
3 restaurants, a handful of bars, primary and
secondary schools, and several stores. Castillo
is 7km north of Alcalá la Real and 2km
from the N432 main road.
Alcaudete
Known by the Moors as al-Qabdaq, or the city
of springs, due to the abundance of fresh springs
in the area, Alcuadete was the site of a number
of disputes between the Moors and the Christians.
Alcaudete is built around the hill on which
the 13th castle still stands. The castle was
built over the site of a Moorish fortress. Alcaudete
is situated in lovely countryside and there
are amazing views from the town. The natural
area surrounding Alcaudete include the Honda
and Chinche natural reservoirs that are home
to a number of birds including migratory flamingos.
11,000 people live in Alcaudete, the town contains
several schools, a health centre and other amenities.
Alcaudete is located on the N432 main road,
40km southeast of Jaén.
Martos
Martos was an important Roman settlement and
later a Visigoth bishopric. Following a period
of Moorish rule, the Christians captured the
town in 1225 on St Marta’s Day, hence
the name of Martos. The town also contains the
13th century church of Santa María de
la Villa, a renaissance town hall and a 16th
century fountain, the Fuente Nueva. Martos is
home to 22,000 people situated on the N316 road
22km from Jaén.
Fuensanta de Martos is a village
south of Martos with 3200 inhabitants. Fuensanta
is 12km south of Martos in the foothills of
the Sierra de la Pandera.
Torredonjimeno
Dating back to Roman times, Torredonjimeno is
surrounded by the olive groves that are the
mainstay of the town’s population. The
13th century castle stands on the site of an
old Roman fortress and there is a 17th century
renaissance town hall. Torredonjimeno, home
to 13,000 people, is an attractive town scattered
with small plazas whose streets are lined with
pretty balconied houses. Torredonjimeno is situated
just off the A316 road 20km east of Jaén.
Villardompardo, a village
of 1200 inhabitants is 9km north of Torredonjimeno
and Jamilena, (3200 inhabitants)
is 3km southwest of Torredonjimeno.
Porcuna
Located in the west of Jaén, Porcuna
is not a particularly inspiring village although
some important archaeological finds have been
made here. The village has a modern parish church
built in the late 19th century in which there
are paintings by Julio Romero de Torres. Porcuna
is a village of 7000 inhabitants, 20km northeast
of Torredonjimeno.
To the south of Porcuna is the village of Higera
de Calatrava, surrounded by olive groves
and fields of sunflowers. 700 people live in
Higera, which is 7km south of Porcuna. Santiago
de Calatrava, a village of 900 people,
contains the interesting church of Nuestra Señora
de la Estrella and is a further 6km south from
Higera.
Lopera
Near to the border with Córdoba, Lopera is an interesting village of 4000 inhabitants. The Church of the Purísima Concepción on the main plaza has a stone façade, whitewashed walls and a freestanding, minaret like bell tower. The village’s Moorish castle is well preserved and the surrounding countryside is attractive. On the 22nd of April, the pilgrimage of the Virgen de la Cabeza takes begins in the village. Lopera is 8km north of Porcuna.
Valdepeñas de Jaén
Located next to the Viboras river, Valdepeñas
is a village of 4500 inhabitants. Of note are
the Romanesque church of Santiago and the castle
ruins. On the 1st of May, a pilgrimage in honour
of Santo Cristo de los Chircales takes place.
Valdepeñas is 34km from Jaén.
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