In the heart of the Jaén province, the
towns of Úbeda and Baeza are two of Andalucía’s
best kept secrets. Crammed with renaissance masterpieces
of palaces and cathedrals, churches and hospitals,
these towns achieved great prosperity during the
16th century and were later virtually forgotten.
Surrounded by a landscape of olive groves dotted
with hilltop villages and castles, Úbeda
and Baeza are fascinating, little visited places
that are a joy to explore.
Úbeda
A town with a rich history and numerous buildings
of architectural interest, Úbeda is situated
on the slopes of a hill in a landscape of olive
groves that roll towards the Sierra de Cazorla
in the east. Úbeda was important in Moorish
times when the town was surrounded by walls
and a castle was built here. During the 16th
century Úbeda enjoyed a period of prosperity
due to its textile industry and due to the important
political positions of some of its nobility.
The two families, the Cobos and the Molinas
were responsible for the majority of the fine
renaissance architecture in the town, much of
it designed by Andrés de Vandelvira who
was born in Úbeda.
The main square of Úbeda is known as
the Plaza de Andalucía and is situated
just outside the old town walls. The Torre del
Reloj on the southern side of the square is
a part of the old fortifications of Úbeda.
Southeast of the square, Calle Real takes you
down into the old part of town, crammed with
renaissance masterpieces. The Palacio de las
Cadenas is one of Vandelvira’s finest
works and now serves as the town hall. Other
buildings of note include the Casa de las Torres,
a 16th century building that is now an art school,
the Church of San Lorenzo, the church of Santa
María de las Reales Alcázares
and the Chapel of San Salvador, one of the most
interesting buildings in Úbeda.
The north of Úbeda consists of a number
of unattractive, tall tower blocks. It is in
this area that the Church of San Nicolas de
Bari stands, a 14th century building. And the
Hospital of Santiago, designed by Vandelvira.
The road running through the north of the town
used to be an important communications route
between Andalucía and eastern Spain.
When this route ceased to be used, Úbeda
became somewhat isolated and it has retained
a reputation for being secluded to this day.
The traditional handicrafts of Úbeda
are basketwork and ceramics, hand embroidered
mats and ironwork. The Parador in Úbeda
is a 16th century palace that was converted
into a hotel in 1930.
Úbeda is 35km to the northeast of Jaén
in the middle of the Jaén province. The
nearest airport is at Granada, 130km to the
south.
Torreperogil
An attractive town of 7500 inhabitants, Torreperogil
contains the notable parish Church of La Asunción,
a gothic building that was added to in the 16th
century. On the 6th June, Corpus Christi parades
take place across Jaén and in Torreperogil,
the streets are brightly decorated with flowers
and petals. Torreperogil is 7km east of Úbeda
on the N322 road.
Sabiote
A village perched on top of a hill overlooking
the surrounding countryside and the Sierra Cazorla
just to the east, Sabiote is a lovely, unspoilt
place. The streets are cobbled and most of the
medieval walls that once completely encircled
the village still remain. In the centre of the
village stands the parish church of San Pedro
Apostól with a plateresque carved doorway.
There are some fine renaissance buildings in
the village with striking 16th century facades.
The 13th century Moorish castle was originally
rebuilt by the Romans in 16th century by Vandelvira.
A village of 4000 inhabitants, Sabiote has limited
amenities but is just 6km from Úbeda.
Baeza
Another important historical town crammed with
renaissance jewels, Baeza sits atop a hill a
few kilometres from Úbeda with views
over to its neighbour and to the Sierra
Cazorla in the southeast. Baeza was a significant
Roman town and later an important Moorish town
when it was the flourishing capital of a large
city state. During the 16th century, Baeza’s
fortunes followed those of Úbeda and
along with an increase in population came a
flood of wealth when Baeza’s textile and
cattle raising economy swelled and thrived.
A university was established in Baeza at this
time, and remained open until 1824. Baeza doesn’t
have as many renaissance buildings as Úbeda
but it has been less blighted by modern 20th
century development than its neighbour.
The main square of Baeza is lined with bars
and cafes and it comes to life at night. To
the west of the main square is the Plaza de
Pópulo, a well-preserved renaissance
square with a fountain at its centre. At one
end is a stone archway adjacent to one of the
old gates into the town, known as the Puerta
de Jaén. Behind this square is the old,
quiet area of Baeza that rises up to the top
of the hill on which the cathedral stands. The
13th century cathedral was built on a site of
a former mosque. It was completed in the 16th
century by Vandelvira. Other buildings of note
in the town include the Jabalquinto palace with
its gothic façade, baroque staircase
and renaissance courtyard, the old university
and a number of other renaissance churches and
palaces.
With a population of 15000, Baeza is smaller
and quieter than Úbeda. It contains a
number of bars, restaurants, shops and amenities.
Baeza is 6km west of Úbeda on the N322
main road.
Rus
In the hills behind Úbeda and Baeza is
the village of Rus with a population of 4000.
The popular fiesta of Los Mozos is held here
on 22nd September each year. Rus is 8km northwest
of Úbeda.
Canena is practically adjacent
to Rus. It has an interesting castle with large
built of salmon pink stone that is one of the
best preserved in Andalucía. Canena has
a population of 2000 and is located 10km from
Úbeda
Just south of Canena is Ibros,
a pretty village of 3000 inhabitants that contains
the parish church of San Pedro y San Pablo.
Ibros is 4km from Baeza. South of Ibros are
the villages of Lupión
(1000 inhabitants) and Begijar
(3000 inhabitants). Begijar is situated a kilometre
from the N322 main road, 4km west of Baeza.
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