La Campiña is the largest region in the Seville
province and its vast agricultural plains stretch
across the south east of Seville. Consisting mainly
of flat farmland and gently rolling hills planted
with olive trees and wheat fields, La Campiña
is a fertile and productive area. Dotted around
the area are many historically and architecturally
important towns that are often unscathed by development
and relatively undiscovered by visitors. With
their unique Sevillian characteristics, some of
these places are important centres of flamenco
and along with the rest of Seville, all of them
engage enthusiastically in the celebrations that
take place throughout the year. Main towns of
interest include the beautiful Carmona, Osuna
and Écija, "the city of towers". Around these
towns are numerous, little-visited villages whose
inhabitants are responsible for cultivating La
Campiña.
Carmona
In the heart of La Campiña, Carmona is an attractive
and fascinating town built upon a hill that
rises above the fertile agricultural lands of
the Guadalquivir basin. The coat of arms of
Carmona features the words of Ferdinand III:
"Like the morning star at dawn, so shines Carmona
in Andalucía", on capturing the town from the
Moors in 1247. Carmona's history reaches back
to Neolithic times. Archaeological remains have
been found near to the town and it is known
to have been an important Roman settlement.
Just outside Carmona there is a Roman theatre
and in front of this, a Roman Necropolis dating
back to the second century BC.
Carmona's old town is surrounded by walls that
were originally constructed by the Romans and
later strengthened by the Moors who developed
Carmona as a the capital of a city-state. The
entrance to these walls is a huge double gate,
the Puerta de Sevilla, which are adjacent to
a castle in excellent state of repair. The old
town itself consists of steep, quiet streets
with whitewashed houses interspersed with palaces,
churches and other impressive buildings. The
main square of the town is shaded by palm trees
and is a lively place lined with a number of
bars. Just off this square is a 17th century
building originally used as a monastery that
now serves as the town hall. Further up the
hill is the 15th century church of Santa María,
built on the site of a mosque whose enchanting
Courtyard of the Oranges still exists to the
north of the church. North from this church
is the Palacio de los Lasso de la Vega. This
palace has been converted into an extremely
luxurious hotel known as the Casa de Carmona.
Another of the old palaces nearby now serves
as a stylish bar. The Puerta de Córdoba stands
in this vicinity and is a lavish Roman gateway
with octagonal Moorish towers on either side.
A castle was built on the highest point of the
town and overlooks the rest of Carmona. The
14th century Spanish monarch, Pedro the Cruel,
used this castle as an extravagant place of
residence. This castle has recently been transformed
into a high class hotel. The castle offers dramatic
views over the surrounding countryside, which
can be enjoyed from the terraces of the hotel
bar. Carmona is a town of 25,000 inhabitants
and has various amenities such as supermarkets,
schools, a library, a health centre as well
as numerous shops, bars hotels and restaurants.
It acts as a service centre for the villages
in the surrounding countryside.
Carmona is 29km from Seville and 24km from Seville's
airport. It is situated on the main NIV motorway
that runs between Seville and Córdoba.
Alcalá de Guadaira
One of the largest towns of the Campiña region
located on the periphery of Seville, Alcalá
is an animated and lively town. Despite being
so close to Seville, Alcalá has managed to retain
its own unique character and atmosphere. It
is presided over by a huge Moorish fortress
from which the town takes its name: al-Kala.
This fortress is the biggest of those built
in Spain by the Almohads that is still standing
today. A public park surrounds it and its towers
offer magnificent views to the River Alcaira
and over to Seville. Just south of Alcalá are
some more interesting castle remains, those
of the Castillo de Marchenilla, a ruined castle
with Roman origins and 14th century towers.
Alcalá is a town of 56,000 inhabitants with
all the usual amenities. It is located just
14km from the centre of Seville on the A92 motorway
that runs east towards Granada.
El Viso del Alcor
El Viso is a beautiful small town whose houses
display attractive façades and wall tiling.
It was originally an important Roman town known
as Visus, later controlled by the Moors who
renamed the place Alcor. A pilgrimage takes
place here each year on September the 12th,
in honour of Santa María del Alcor.
El Viso is a town of 15,000 inhabitants, located
on the road that runs between Carmona and Alcalá
de Guadaira, halfway between the two towns.
It is 28km from El Viso to Seville.
Almost adjacent to El Viso, 2km to the south
is the town of Mairena del Alcor
with a population of 16,000. Mairena is an important
flamenco centre and a large flamenco festival,
founded by the famous flamenco singer Antonio
Mairena, is held here during the summer.
Marchena
In the centre of the fertile agricultural lands
of the Guadalquivir basin, Marchena is a town
of Roman origins. Away from the main routes
crossing La Campiña, Marchena receives few visitors
yet it is an interesting town. Nicknamed the
"Bella Desconocida", the beautiful stranger,
there are a number of attractive monuments and
sights in Marchena. Around the old town are
the remains of the walls that once encircled
Marchena. These walls were originally built
by the Romans and enhanced by the Moors and
later the Christians. Some of the original gates
and towers of the fortified town have also survived.
During the early 20th century, economic depression
in the area meant that Marchena fell into disrepair
and many of its buildings were neglected although
much has been done to restore the town's monuments.
The most attractive of the old town gates is
the Puerta de Sevilla and the Torre de Oro is
an impressive example of the old towers. Festivities
in Marchena include the main Feria held on the
last Thursday of August, a lively and colourful
event.
Marchena is a market town of 18,000 inhabitants.
It is situated on the N364 road that runs off
the A92 motorway north towards Écija. There
is a train station just outside the town and
Marchena is 55km from Seville.
Lantejuela is an isolated village
of 3500 people, 17km to the east of Marchena
on small country roads. Lantejuela is set in
an interesting rural area with several small
inland lakes to the east of the village. The
land around Lantejuela is an expanse of low-lying
cultivated farmland.
To the southwest of Marchena, situated next
to the A92 motorway is the town of El
Arahal. It is a medium sized town of
18,000 inhabitants. The rail line that crosses
the province of Seville passes next to El Arahal
and there is a train station just outside the
town. El Arahal is 38km from Seville.
To the northeast of El Arahal is the little
town of Paradas with a population
of 7000. The town is built around its parish
church and is situated a kilometre from the
A92 motorway, 5km from El Arahal.
La Puebla de la Cazalla
A town of 11,000 inhabitants, La Puebla is built
on a hill overlooking the surrounding agricultural
lands. A famous flamenco centre, La Puebla was
the birthplace of well known flamenco singers
such as José Meneses and Moreno Galván. The
countryside surrounding La Puebla is quite attractive
as the Carbones river passes just to the east
of the town. Celebrations take place in La Puebla
throughout the year and include the Fiesta of
San José on the 19th of March, a pilgrimage
for San Antonio on the first weekend in May
and the main local feria held from the 8th to
the 11th of September.
La Puebla is situated on the A92 motorway, 64km
east of Seville.
Morón de la Frontera
Morón is a pretty town built on a hill whose
white houses stand out above the flat southern
agricultural land of La Campiña. It was the
capital of a city-state during Moorish rule
in the 11th century. The ruins of an 11th century
Moorish castle mark the highest point of the
town and from the castle there are excellent
views from here over the surrounding countryside.
Scattered around the town are a number of attractive
palaces, churches and convents, many of which
were embellished with marble that was mined
from a local quarry. There is a park near to
the castle, also with fantastic views, where
a statue stands in the form of a plucked cockerel.
One day during the 16th century, an unpopular
tax collector was stripped naked and beaten
by the local people. A Spanish phrase was born
from this story: "to end up like the cock of
Morón" means to make a fool of oneself! The
18th century church of San Ignacio has an elaborate
baroque style western portal and the town also
contains the pretty renaissance style parish
church of San Miguel. Morón is a famous centre
of flamenco and "El Gazpacho", a well known
flamenco festival, is held here each August.
East of Morón are the foothills of the Serranía
de Ronda and the border with the province
of Cádiz is just south of the town.
Morón is a town of 30,000 inhabitants located
in the countryside of La Campiña 17km south
of the A92 motorway. The town is 55km from Seville.
A small road runs south from Morón to the village
of Coripe. Coripe is situated
in remote countryside in the foothills of the
Sierra de San Juan, right on the border
with the province of Cádiz. 1500 people live
in the village, which is 18km south of Morón.
El Saucejo
Situated in the foothills of the Serranía
de Ronda, a large mountain range between
the provinces of Seville, Malaga and Cádiz,
El Saucejo is known for its fresh water springs.
There are numerous fountains in the village,
the prettiest ones being the Fuente del Cañuelo
and the Fuente del Viejo. One of the village's
fountains dates back to Moorish times. El Saucejo's
parish church of San Marcos Evangelista was
built in the early 18th century. El Saucejo
is home to 4000 inhabitants and can only be
reached by country roads. A tiny, winding road
leads to Osuna, the nearest town, 17km to the
north.
West of El Saucejo is the village of Villanueva
de San Juan with a population of 1500.
Villanueva is situated at the foot of the Sierra
del Táblon, part of the foothills of the
Serranía de Ronda, 11km from El Saucejo.
South of Villanueva in the Sierra de Táblon
is the charming mountain village of Algamitas,
a small place with a population of 1300 that
can only be reached by winding and picturesque
mountain roads.
South of Villanueva de San Juan is the mountain
village of Pruna, also remotely
located in the Sierra del Táblon. A
village of 3300 inhabitants, Pruna is 7km from
the small town of Olvera in the Cádiz province
to the south.
Los Corrales
On the southeastern edge of the province of
Seville, Los Corrales is a village of 4000 inhabitants
situated in the foothills of the Serranía
de Ronda, near to the border with the province
of Málaga. Evidence of settlement in the area
dates back to Roman times and there have been
many Roman artefacts unearthed in the vicinity.
The main festivities in Los Corrales take place
from the 4th to the 6th of August when the local
Feria is held. The village is 17km from the
nearest town of Osuna and can only be reached
on small mountain roads.
To the west of Los Corrales is the village of
Martin de la Jara. Next to
the border with Cádiz, Martin de la Jara is
a remote village of 3000 inhabitants, located
4km from Los Corrales.
Osuna
An enchanting town located on a hill in the
fertile plains of La Campiña, with low arid
hills rising to the west to the town. Osuna
contains a wealth of architectural gems and
interesting monuments but remains relatively
unexploited by tourism and unscathed by development.
In fact, the old town lacked any kind of development
until quite recently when a large hospital was
built here and a housing project constructed
on the eastern side of the town. Built on a
slope, Osuna's traditionally Sevillian houses
stretch along its pleasant streets around which
the town's important buildings are dotted. Osuna
was a significant Roman town. Although it declined
during Moorish domination, Osuna became important
once again in the 16th century when it was ruled
by the Count Don Téllez Girón. During this time,
Osuna emerged as a significant centre of culture.
A university was established in the town in
1548 and many aristocrats moved here. The wealthy
locals built a number of extravagant palaces
and monuments and even today, Osuna has retained
its reputation as being a place of affluent
inhabitants and with rigid social structure,
which distinguishes it from other towns in the
province of Seville.
The sites of interest in the town are numerous.
The town is dominated by the Collegiate Church,
begun in the 16th century on the site of a former
church belonging to the town's castle. The church
is an exceptional example of renaissance architecture
with a frontal terrace offering fantastic views
over the countryside surrounding Osuna. The
old university is situated behind the church
and is today used as a school. In addition to
these buildings, Osuna contains a number of
baroque palaces and other renaissance churches.
Osuna remains a traditional town. The main laundry
service in the town is still carried out by
the nuns of the Santa Catalina convent. Just
above the pleasant main square is the Mesón
del Duque, a fine restaurant with an excellent
reputation for serving traditional Andalucían
cuisine. Today it is inhabited by 17,000 people
and its amenities include a hospital, schools,
supermarkets and numerous shops. There is an
equestrian centre in the town offering the opportunity
to ride through the local countryside. The main
local fiesta takes place from the 13th to the
15th of May.
Osuna is situated on the A92 motorway, 80km
west of Seville. There is a train station just
outside the town.
Further east on the A92 is the village of Aguadulce.
An agricultural village with a population of
2000, Aguadulce is 10km east of Osuna on the
Río Blanco.
Estepa
A lively, attractive town with a population
of 12,000. Estepa is similar to neighbouring
Osuna although it is smaller and less well-preserved.
Most Spaniards associate the name of Estepa
with biscuits usually consumed at Christmas.
During this time of year when sweets are being
produced in large quantities, the town smells
of pastry, marzipan and cinnamon. The central
square of Estepa, the Plaza del Carmen, is an
animated place. The Calle Mesones and the Calle
Castillejos form the main promenade of the town
and are lined with shops and bars. From these
streets there are views to the outcrops of the
nearby Sierra de Machuca. A ruined
castle dating back to the 13th century stands
above the town.
Estepa is situated next to the A92 motorway,
20km east of Osuna and 100km from Seville. It
lies close to the border of the Seville province
with Málaga and Córdoba.
South of Estepa is the village of Gilena
with a population of 4000. Gilena is 4km from
Estepa, away from the motorway.
A further 3km south of Gilena lies the village
of Pedrera, home to 5000 people.
The railway passes Pedrera and there is a train
station in the village.
The tiny village of Lora de Estepa
is located east of Estepa itself. Surrounded
by flat lands planted with olive trees, Lora
contains the 18th century church of San Miguel.
The main festivals in Lora are the Fiesta of
San Marcos on the 25th of April and the festival
of San Miguel Arcángel on the 29th of September.
Lora is a village of 750 inhabitants situated
7km to the east of Estepa, just off the A92
motorway.
In the south eastern corner of the province
of Seville, La Roda de Andalucía
is a village of 4000 inhabitants. Surrounded
by olive groves, it contains the baroque 17th
century church of Santa Ana. The numerous festivities
in La Roda include a pilgrimage in honour of
San Pancracio on the second Sunday in May, the
festival of María Auxiliadora on the 24th of
May, the fiesta of San Pedro on the last weekend
of June and fiesta in honour of the Virgen del
Carmen on the 16th of July. Also celebrated
enthusiastically on the first weekend of August
is the Verbena del Emigrante.
La Roda is situated on the A92 motorway 18km
from Estepa on the border with the province
of Córdoba. There is a train station just outside
the town and trains can be taken from here to
various parts of Andalucía.
East of Estepa, away from the motorway is the
village of Casariche with a
population of 5000. A farming village located
in olive growing countryside, Casariche is 13km
from Estepa. There is a train station just outside
the village.
East of Casariche, Badolatosa
lies right on the border with Córdoba. Another
olive growing village, Badolatosa has a population
of 3000. It is situated away from the main roads,
22km from Estepa.
Herrera
At the eastern edge of La Campiña, Herrera is
a farming village surrounded by rolling hills
of wheat fields and olive groves. It used to
be an important iron mining area. The 17th century
church of Santiago el Mayor forms the central
focus of the village. Festivals in Herrera include
the main local fair which takes place from the
5th to the 8th of August, the festival of San
Marcos on April 25th and a pilgrimage of the
Virgen de Fátima on the 10th of May.
Herrera is a village of 6000 inhabitants situated
on the N340, 8km north of the A92 motorway.
The nearest sizeable town is that of Puente
Genil, 9km away in Córdoba.
To the east of Herrera is the village of El
Rubio whose population numbers 3700.
El Rubio is situated 23km to the northeast of
Osuna on country roads.
Marinaleda
A small village located in flat surroundings
of wheat fields, Marinaleda would be relatively
unknown were it not for its political associations.
It is a main centre of the movement of a workers
union known as the SOC, which is an organization
that mixes Andalucía's tradition of anarchy
with pacifism and ecological ideals. The village
itself consists of neat and modern streets lined
with well kept flower beds. The village square
is named Plaza de Libertad and a banner flying
above the square is printed with the words Tierra
de Libertad: Free Earth. The Casa de Cultura
is a workers club located on this square. The
mayor of the town, Sánchez Gordillo has given
Marinaleda the reputation of being one of the
most politically extreme villages in Andalucía
and the inhabitants of the village are represent
a firm majority of communist voters. The mayor's
intriguing and radical policies have caught
the public eye over the years and the political
activity is an integral part of the life of
the villagers.
Marinaleda has a population of 2600 and is situated
27km to the northwest of Osuna and 20km south
of the town of Écija.
Écija
The main town in the northwest of La Campiña,
Écija is situated next to the Genil river.
The towns origins date back to Roman times when
it was a settlement called Astigi. The remains
of this settlement can still be seen outside
the town. Écija is known as the "city of towers"
due to its numerous baroque towers that were
constructed after the Lisbon earthquake of 1755
destroyed many of the town's buildings. The
modern development on the outskirts of Écija
is unattractive but the town centre has retained
a charming and tranquil atmosphere with graceful
streets and monuments. The Plaza de España is
the main square of the town, a quiet, tree-lined
plaza with a 19th century fountain at its centre.
Among the many baroque towers in the town, perhaps
the most beautiful is the tower of the church
of San Juan Bautista, decorated with fantastic
ceramic blue tiles set on a background of red
brick. Along with the towers, there are plenty
of outstanding palaces in Écija dating from
the 18th century.
Écija is a large urban centre of 38,000 inhabitants
located just off the NIV motorway. The town
is 55km southeast of Córdoba and 90km east of
Seville.
La Luisiana
This town was a colony that was founded during
the late 18th century by Charles III in an attempt
to populate the uninhabited areas near to the
Sierra Morena. A number of colonies
were set up at this time and Charles' minister,
Olavide, decided that rather than populating
these new towns with Spaniards and risk depopulating
other areas of Spain, they would bring people
in from other parts of Europe, mostly from northern
Europe. La Luisiana is built on a regular grid
pattern as dictated by town planners of the
time. The small and attractive town square is
adjacent to the town hall and as is the neoclassical
pink parish church.
La Luisiana has a population of 4300. It is
situated 15km to the west of Écija, next to
the NIV motorway, 75km east of Seville.
A small road leads north from La Luisiana to
Cañada del Rosal. A rural village
of 3000 inhabitants, the village is close to
the border with Córdoba and the foothills of
the Sierra Morena.
Fuentes de Andalucía
Laying in the midst of flat, agricultural land,
Fuentes de Andalucía is a fairly modern town
whose more traditional houses date back to the
18th century. These houses have brick façades,
wrought iron balconies and barred windows. The
parish church of Santa María de las Nieves dates
back to the 16th century and the town also contains
the baroque church of San José. Festivities
in the town include the fiesta of San Sebastián
held on the 20th of January and the main local
fair which takes place on the third weekend
of August.
Fuentes has a population of 7500 and is situated
5km south of the NIV motorway, 23km east of
the town of Carmona and 52km east of Seville.
Dos Hermanas
A satellite town of Seville, just to the south
of the capital, Dos Hermanas is a sprawling
urban centre of 90,000 inhabitants. The town
is characterised by the busy and often congested
main roads running through its centre and although
historically separate from Seville, today the
atmosphere of Dos Hermanas is largely overshadowed
by its grander neighbour. Of interest in the
town is the pilgrimage of Valme, which takes
place on the third Sunday in October and attracts
people from across the province.
Dos Hermanas is 10km from the outskirts of Seville,
to the south of the city.
Utrera
Not a particularly attractive town, Utrera originated
in Roman times and was also important to the
Moors. Now largely an urban sprawl of modern
housing developments with industrial areas on
its outskirts. Despite this, the town does manage
to maintain a vibrant atmosphere and unique
character. Today it is renowned for being one
of the main flamenco centres in Andalucía. During
July ,the "Potage", a large flamenco festival
is held in the town's park. Utrera contains
the remains of its old Moorish castle and the
15th century church of Santiago.
Utrera has a population of 46,000 and is 30km
from Seville. There is a train station in the
town and trains run north to Seville, south
to Cádiz and east to other areas of Andalucía.
Southeast of Utrera in the fertile agricultural
plains is Los Molares, a village
of 2600 inhabitants. Los Molares is 7km from
Utrera. Further southeast along the N376 road,
the village of El Coronil,
surrounded by olive groves and wheat fields
has a population of 5000. El Coronil is 15km
from Utrera.
Montellano
In the far south of the Seville province and
La Campiña, Montellano is close to the border
with Seville. Set in a landscape of seemingly
endless olive trees and wheatfields, Montellano's
main economic activity is agriculture. The village
contains the interesting 18th century parish
church of Nuestro Señor San José with an attractive
main façade. Local festivities take place in
Montellano during the first week in August when
the Fiesta de los Jubileos is held. Montellano
has 7000 inhabitants. It is situated 25km south
of the town of Utrera
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